While we loved our Italian trip, if I had to rank the cities, Milan was my least favorite. It was because it seemed so international and cosmopolitan while Florence and Venice seemed to exist in Renaissance and Medieval times. This was also the wealthiest of the four cities we visited.
If I had to express the essence of Milan in one word, it would be "CLOTHES". We stayed in the downtown area and street after street were filled with upscale shops with windows full of the most beautiful clothes I've ever seen en mass in person. These were not 'runway' clothes, most of which are practically unwearable, but rather with well tailored, well designed clothes which would be a pleasure to wear everyday. How glad I was to be 68 instead of 28. My age saved me lots of $$$$. The clothes were all obviously made to be worn by the young professional woman either at work or at play. They were still a joy to see in the windows and then equally striking 'shown' in real life on the streets.
While we did the obligatory (on my vacations, anyway) museums, and there were a couple of wonderful ones, the iconic activity was attending the Nutcracker Ballet at LaScala Opera House, one of the most famous
performance venues in the world. It was opened in 1778. The exterior is quite unimposing, and my first thought on finding it was, "Can this really be it?". The interior was also pedestrian, but the quality of the sound was magnificent.
Now, we've seen the Nutcracker a zillion times. Two things made this performance unique. We were touring a famous Milan art museum, and two other Americans asked Drake if he knew the location of something in the museum. They struck up a conversation, and it turns out they were from the New York City Ballet. They were in Milan supervising the production of The Nutcracker which was using the George Balanchine choreography - owned by the NYC ballet. (For ballet neophytes - Balanchine was the artistic director of the NYC Ballet for decades, and he's famed for his intricate and difficult to dance choreography.) They told Drake the dancing was so/so, but the music would be fabulous. Boy, were they right. I don't know how in 1778 they got the acoustics exactly perfect, but I've never heard Tchaikovsky any better.
We also saw the Medieval heart of Milan, a walled fort which has been restored. Even though Milan was the coldest of our destinations, it was refreshing to be outdoors walking around this huge walled fort. As to approach, there's a large fountain.
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| Half the fountain is to the left |
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| One of four towers on each corner |
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| Fortified gate into the fort |
I actually had to miss a museum inside the fort - it was closed, but I suspect the building itself was the major attraction. During the restoration, the restorers uncovered 'ancient Milan' from the Roman times, and piled all the bits and pieces from that time period in one corner of the courtyard.
Naturally, Milan has a cathedral. It's not just any cathedral - it's the largest in Italy, larger than St. Peters. The Milan Duomo began construction in 1387 and continued for 600 years! Napoleon coerced and bribed the 'builders' to finish the facade since this is the site of his coronation as the King of Italy. This cathedral is basically in the Gothic style with flying buttresses, and it looks like a giant confection.
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| Gargolyes inside the museum |
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| Outdoor gargoyle on Duomo Cathedral - with pigeon deterrent |
We were here on the Saturday before Christmas. This was a performance hall for concerts (thus the extra chairs), as well as the extra religious services. The Duomo Plaza has the Cathedral on one side and the Vittorio Emanuele on the other side. The Vittorio Emanuele is the Rodeo Drive of Milan.
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| The 'Sworovski' Christmas tree - decorated with crystals |
Of course, I went to art museums in Milan. In the top fine arts museum is hung one of the most revered painting in Italy - nope, it's not religious, but rather, patriotic. It's by Francesco Hayez, an Italian Romantic painter. It's the essence of a romantic kiss, but it symbolizes the beginning of the union of Italy into one nation. It is in the Pinoteca de Brera (lots of other great pictures too).
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| "The Kiss" by Hayez |
Our other adventure in Milan was the result of a travel article I read before we went. We tracked down a shop inside a courtyard which creates decorative hand painted plates. This is a family business run by two generations of women. Below is the daughter standing outside the shop window. My 'big' Italian souvenir was a pair of hand painted plates.
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| This is the daughter holding one of the plates I bought |
Finally, while I took fewer pictures in Milan than anywhere else in Italy, there are still lots and lots. I would suggest you look at the first set entitled 'Milan', and then move onto the art if you are interested.
Milan
Pinoteca de Brera (fine art museum)
Ambrosiana Museum (art/decorative arts)
Poldi Museum (decorative arts)
