Friday, September 20, 2013

I've Been Seeing Dead People

There's an awfully lot of prime real estate tied up in grave sites.  It was truly baffling in New England.  The amount of relatively flat, open land was so small; the amount tied up with sprouting tombstones was noticeable.  There are quite a few New England towns in which the grave yard is bigger than the town.  Cemeteries are fascinating.  I've been to them all over the world.  I got hooked on this practice over 30 years ago in Vienna where some very famous musicians are buried under some fancy stonework.

The Grove Cemetery at New Haven was a few centuries walk through a who's who at Yale.  It had quite a few interesting monuments, but mostly lots and lots of WORDS every where.  You didn't see too many "Beloved Mother" sentiments.  There was bunches of Joe Blow, Reverend, Teacher, Lawyer, Statesmen, Yale Graduate 1809.  Discovered how Air Tasted, Known as the Best Cloud Lover in Thirty States, etc., etc., etc. Oh, and even as fab as he was he died in 1869. 


The Grove in New Haven was among the first 'designed' cemeteries.  Prior to the Grove (1797 - first burial), you died, you got planted, and the next guy who died got planted next to you.  The Grove started the idea of 'family plots', and they pre-sold those plots prior to death.  This new cemetery came into being because of yellow fever epidemics that killed 5000 people quickly and filled up the burial space on the "Common" - the green space at the center of town.  This new fangled idea of having a planned place waiting for you when you died caught on, and the most cosmopolitan towns like New York City and Baltimore and Philadelphia quickly developed their own planned cemeteries.  



1846 rolls around, and the good folks of Richmond are alarmed they are falling behind the times.  They, too, decided a planned cemetery with family plots was just the ticket.  A group of investors bought land bordering the James River and hired an important architect who laid out a massive grave yard leaving the already large American Holly trees on the property as decoration.  He suggested they call it "Hollywood" after the trees that are still standing today.
  
Just fifteen short years later, the first of the Richmond Confederate soldiers came home to the graveyard.  Eventually there would be 18,000 of them, and a large pyramid like monument was raised in 1869 to honor them.  It was made from Richmond cut granite and stacked up without mortar.  The crane was too short to place the capstone.  Placing it by 'hand' was deemed to be a 50/50 risk of death for the person who attempted it.  A prisoner volunteered.  If he succeeded, he got out of jail.  A tough way to win his freedom, but he won his bet.  The monument is about 80 feet high and sits on Confederate Hill.  Directly surrounding the granite pyramid are the soldiers who fell in battle.  This part of Hollywood Cemetery is a grave yard of teenagers and twenty somethings.






Two famous Confederates are buried here:  Major George E. Pickett, the leader of the infamous "Picket's Charge" at Gettysburg in which more than three brigades were shot to doll rags by Union crossfire.  As the remnants of survivors retreated, eye witnesses said that Pickett wept.  When Lee asked Pickett to assemble his brigade, Pickett supposedly replied, General Lee, I have no brigade.  Pickett survived the war and died in 1875; he is buried under this elaborate monument.  There's an equally elaborate monument next to his erected by the survivors of the charge at Gettysburg in remembrance of their fallen comrades. 


The other famous Confederate is J.E.B. Stuart.  Stuart graduated from West Point in 1854, and resigned his US Army military commission returning to Virginia and Lee at the start of the War.  By all accounts, Lee considered Stuart an adopted son.  This famous cavalry officer died at the Battle of Yellow Tavern in 1864 in an offensive led by another famous Union officer, Phil Sheridan.  Sheridan was specifically to ordered to find and eliminate Stuart who the Union generals considered to be the most able Confederate commander after Lee.  Stuart was only 34 years old when he was killed, but his widow Flora lived until 1923, never remarried and only wore black from the day Stuart was killed until she died.  That level of devotion to the Lost Cause was displayed by many, many Southern women of the upper class.  They preserved numerous historical sites as well as significant artifacts in the decades following the Civil War. 

Hollywood is also the resting place of two United States Presidents:  James Monroe and John Tyler.  They are interred in the "Presidents' Circle" and surrounded by the 19th century movers and shakers of Richmond and Virginia society.  There are several Virginia Governors buried in this area.  Ironically, this cemetery has beautiful waterfront views of the James River, but all of the graves in that section of the Presidents' Circle face toward the Circle and away from the river view.  Monroe's tomb is a showcase for the ironwork this cemetery is famous for.  
 
Tyler's tomb is topped with an obelisk, and the obelisk is topped with an American Eagle.  
Of far more interest is the life sized angel standing next to his tomb.  This is over the grave of one of his daughters.  I think this is the really interesting feature of the Hollywood cemetery.  There are angels everywhere; I mean the stone variety, not the real deal.  Most of them are life sized, and they have varying poses.  Some are intact, while others, like this lady, are missing a piece or two.  

Jefferson Davis has his OWN circle and he's got a bigger than life sized bronze statue of himself.  Varina, his wife, has a seated angel over hers

 The Atkinson family didn't want to leave any doubt as to their religious affiliation - not only a life sized praying angel but a larger than life sized cross.

My favorite statue of the entire cemetery was this one.  She kneels on the grave of a 19 year old boy.  I immediately thought, "that's his mother" the instant I saw it.

I'm sure this won't be the last graveyard I visit.  What's fascinating about 18th, 19th and early 20th century graves are the variety of the monuments.  Post 1950, the monuments are all rectangular slabs of granite.  There are no angels, lambs, dogs, fancy fences, crosses, mythological creatures, or fanciful miniature buildings. Post 1970 there aren't even that many granite rectangles.  Instead, there are flat plaques even with the ground.  Ease of mowing has replaced expressions of grief.  I think the faceless perpetual care of contemporary cemeteries coupled with the movement for better land use and the not inconsequential cost of burial is making places like the Hollywood Cemetery relics of the past.

The rest of the pix show other interesting features of this cemetery.




Wednesday, September 18, 2013

The Civil War, oh, excuse me, The War Between the States

Over one hundred years after the horrible American conflict, depending on which side of the Mason Dixon line you lived, you either studied the Civil War (the Northern perception of the war) or The War Between the States (the Southern take on the war).  When we visited the Museum of the Confederacy, the 'war between the states' argument is still being presented.  In a nutshell, the Southern reasoning is they were fighting for 'states rights' in contrast to the Northern perception of fighting to preserve the Union between the States.  Historians agree the war was about economics, specifically slave economics. The more the Northern abolitionists and politicians tried to limit and thwart the slave economy, the more rabid the Southern politicians and planter class (slave holders) became.  They considered slaves property, and thus, should be regulated by the property owners, and otherwise only lightly regulated by the individual states, not the Federal Government.  The territories were the rub:  Slavery permitted or not?  Who decides?  Various compromises were tried to no avail.  Lincoln's election as President from the new abolitionist dominated Republican Party was the last straw.  Even former President John Tyler trying to promote a peace conference didn't stop the slavery conflict from escalating to all out war.  I wonder if the participants could have seen the future, would they have been so eager to start firing weapons?

The Museum of the Confederacy left me with an overwhelming sadness similar to what I felt when I went to Gettysburg.  This museum's strong points are the amazing number of actual artifacts they possess as well as a comprehensive chronological overview of the War from 1860 to 1865.  As you move through the various battles, the casualty figures mount and mount.  The sheer bloodshed on both sides is almost unbelievable.  The Civil War is an example of tactics used from the previous war meeting the first mass output of industrially produced weapons. This war is filled with 'charges' by waves of soldiers against rapid fire weapons as well as multiple canons.  You can imagine the carnage.  The South, having a smaller population, and almost no manufacturing base could ill afford to fight this type of war. By the end of the second year, the Southern defeat was an inevitable conclusion. 


Situated next to the Museum of the Confederacy, in fact, the museum's first home, is the White House of the Confederacy.  This mansion built in the 1830's was a wonderfully decorated example of a mid 19th century home.  It was filled not with reproductions, but with many original pieces used by the Davis family as well as fine original antiques of the period.  It has been meticulously decorated using clues in correspondence as well as stripping off paint and layers of wall paper to get down to the time period of the house.  The curators are very proud that the house has the same appearance as during the Davis' family occupation.  

The most interesting person in the Davis family (my opinion) was not Jefferson, but rather his wife Varina.  She came from a middle class family, and she continued to do a lot of her own chores as well as having middle class hobbies - like sewing with an early sewing machine making practical clothing.  She was snubbed by the Southern upper class wives, but this didn't seem to affect her. She spent the post war years trying to secure her husband's release from prison (he did 2.5 years of 'time' after the war), and she raised her children.  She was also a writer, and after the death of her husband, she secured a job with Joseph Pulitzer, owner of the New York World newspaper, as a columnist.  She founded the New York Chapter of the Daughters of the Confederacy where she lived until her death.  She's buried in the Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond with a lovely stone angel over her grave.

Pictures as always:  


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