Monday, August 27, 2018

The Northwestern Berkshires


We made a little trip to the Berkshires - which is western Massachusetts.  The 'Berkshires' are actually just the Appalachian mountains which are located in Massachusetts.  If you are in Vermont, they are called 'The Green Mountains'.  In New Hampshire, they are 'The White Mountains', but they are all one mountain range, the Appalachians.  The Berkshires are famous as a summer vacation spot in the East for culture.  There are numerous theatrical, dance and music festivals. The Berkshires are filled with quaint little towns, each trying to out-quaint the next one five miles down the road.
One of those quaint little towns is 'Williamstown' which is the home of a gem of a traditional museum, "The Clark Art Institute".  It has been completely remodeled and expanded.  I suspect the renovation was done by the same architect who designed the Kimball in Fort Worth.  Check out the first two pictures in the album and see if you don't agree.  If the Clark museum sounds familiar, it's because when it was remodeled, they sent their pictures on an extended tour, and the tour came to DFW.  As we toured this museum a few weeks ago, we kept saying, "We've seen that one."  However, if you like Impressionist art, well, this place has oodles of the best.  You can check out the pix by following the link.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EncfxtcRN3j3SPg8A

Western Massachusetts was a hotbed of small manufacturing towns in the 19th and early 20th century.  This is the home of the 'widgets' (small stuff that can be put together in the factory where everyone in town works).  International competition, as well as mismanagement of resources, and/or obsolescence put all of these places out of business.  Most of the towns are little dots on the map.  Sometimes they are the sites of fairly famous colleges.  ("Williams" - founded in the 1790's is one of those schools).

An interesting factoid about "The Clark" is Sterling and Francine Clark didn't ever live in Williamstown, the site of the museum.  He wasn't the local industrialist like the Hyde family in Glens Falls who founded a museum to hold their personal art collection.  Oh, this museum was built to hold the Clark art collection, but Williamstown was chosen as the site because Sterling and Francine became alarmed during the Cold War a nuclear bomb attack on NYC (their residence) would destroy their art.  They picked Williamstown, Massachusetts, as the safe place they would build a museum based on a nebulous connection by the grandfather to Williams College!  Sterling Clark is one of those rich guys (heir to the Singer Sewing Machine fortune) who inherited rather than earned his $$.  I'm just glad he left his art collection to the public.

A much more interesting museum is called "The MoCA" -  nope, not about chocolate.  It stands for the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art.  The town of North Adams repurposed a group of eight large derelict factory buildings and transformed them into a contemporary art museum.  This setting for the art is fascinating, and the art is very interesting.  This museum has made this town a tourist destination.  Instead of being a fading 19th century factory town, it is now vibrant and alive with new shops, B & B's and restaurants.  This museum was fun, and they have some wonderful Sol Lewitt pieces.  I just like his use of precision and color.

Ok, so sometimes I get a little crazy
One of the exhibitions that impressed me was called "The Lure of the Dark", and all the paintings exhibited were night scenes.  The gallery was darkened, and there were pools of light around each painting.  Here's an example of what I mean.  The display was novel, and the technique enhanced the paintings.


If you want to see the pix of the contemporary art, click on the link:


Once again, the Berkshires have impressed.  We enjoyed a jam packed day, and I'm hoping we can get back to finish up the Clark and take in the Williams College Museum.  

Sunday, August 26, 2018

Sixteen Miles on the Erie Canal

Everywhere we go, there's always a fascinating history.  I knew Saratoga Springs was a battleground of the Revolutionary War, but I didn't know Washington's victory convinced the French to 'invest' in the Colonial's war against Great Britain.   I knew there was a famous horse race track here, but I didn't know gambling was really the oil that fueled the prosperity of this town.

I knew the Dutch were the original settlers of New York, and as we've toured around, it has become obvious settlement just sort of drifted north and west from New York City and the Atlantic coast.  Gradually, the English settlers outnumbered the Dutch, but some towns retained their Dutch heritage, language, and culture.  I didn't think there would be many surprises beyond what I already knew about the history of the area.

And, then, I learned about the Erie Canal.  Well, that's a NAME we all know from our first American History class, but the significance of it has been lost in history.  First, the logistics:  It's basically a 40 foot deep ditch dug between Buffalo and Albany.  The Erie Canal was a waterway between the Lake Erie and the Hudson River which flowed into the Atlantic Ocean at New York City.  In 1825 roads were few, and what ones there were became easily impassable with the slightest adverse weather.  Rivers were navigable for small distances by shallow draft boats, and there were many portages around water obstacles.     

The Erie Canal construction began in 1817 and was completed by 1825.  The then current and former Presidents of the United States, including Thomas Jefferson, thought the canal was a preposterous idea, and the federal government refused any funds toward its construction.  So, DeWitt Clinton, the Governor of New York, employed massive eminent domain powers as well as seizing Native American lands, and then begged and bullied New York financiers to back $7 million dollars in bonds to construct the canal.  The success of the Erie Canal was almost instantaneous, and its success launched a flurry of other canal projects. 

Construction of the canal was no picnic.  First, it was over 300 miles though dense forest.  The work was halted by the severe winters.  There was the tiny problem of the Niagara Escarpment to overcome.  The lock system finally devised though the escarpment had never been done before.

The construction of the canal required 'on the job training' as there were no civil engineers, nor any engineering school in the United States of the early 19th century.  Many of the techniques to build the canal were devised by Benjamin Wright,
today known as the father of American Civil Engineering, and the founder of the first engineering school in the United States at Renssalear, New York.  The initial canal was 363 miles in length, most of it cut through the dense forests of upstate New York.  It was built, then rebuilt to compete with the railroads, and then rebuilt again before it finally became completely obsolete due to the competition by the railroads and the completion of the St. Lawrence Seaway.  Today, most of the first canal is gone, and the 'towpath' manned by oxen and mules pulling the 'packet boats' is also mostly gone. In the 21st century the Erie Canal is a tourist boat ride of a few miles.

The significance of the Erie Canal can not be underestimated.  It opened up the Midwest for settlement.  Farmers with farms full of worn out soil in New England, particularly Connecticut, New Hampshire and Vermont, were able to pull up stakes, and ride the 'packet boats' of the Erie Canal to new, virgin farm lands.
Farmers in the Midwest suddenly had a market for their goods and produce.  The cost to move goods to the markets in the East decreased 90% when the Erie Canal went into operation.  New York City went from the 4th largest port in the United States to the largest port.   The increased commerce and people passing through fueled the sleepy little towns of Buffalo, and Albany into major cities in the 19th century.  The Erie Canal cemented New York City as the premiere city of country as it became the financial hub of the country. 

Today, the Erie Canal is part of a waterway system which will allow a boat to traverse from Chicago to the Florida Keys and back again.  There are actually 'snow boaters' who follow the good weather in both directions.  This inland system of canals is so extensive that a boater is only on the ocean for 35 miles between Chicago and Keys.  This past week, we took a tourist boat ride on the Canal, and we were following a pleasure yacht well know to the tourist boat Captain as one of those snow boaters.
We are following the yacht - on it's way back to Florida -
through a lock on the Erie Canal
Today, the Erie Canal is a pretty tame and even quaint waterway. 
It feels sleepy and irrelevant in this time of jet airplanes, the world wide web, and space travel.  However, in the 19th century the Erie Canal transformed our economy, and was a spigot that poured native and immigrant settlers into a frontier which has become the food basket of the United States. The commerce the canal generated was the turning point for New York City.  It fired the public imagination and became a symbol of what could be accomplished by a combination of political will, innovation and hard work.

If you want to see more pictures of the actual canal as well as an exhibition of how it was built, as always, just click on the picture links.