Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Escaping the Heat Wave - Cog Rail Up to Mount Washington

We've been waiting for the intersection of a hot day that was also sunny.  First, I realize that 'hot' is relative compared to the rest of the country right now; however, remember:  there's no air conditioning in this part of the USA.  Only a/c is at Walmart, the grocery store, and the movie theater.  Most stores and restaurants and even the libraries aren't air conditioned.  When the temp climbs past 85 and the humidity goes over 50%, believe me, it's hot.  "Sunny" isn't all that easy to come by here either. There are lots and lots of clouds and a hazy fog that hangs around sometimes until late afternoon.   The coolest place (on many levels) in this region is the summit of Mount Washington, the crown jewel of the Presidential Range of the northern Appalachian Mountains - known as the White Mountains in New Hampshire. 

The reason Mount Washington is cool is because it's 6,288 feet in elevation, and in the summer it's 25 degrees cooler at the summit than at the base.  It reminds me of the temperature difference between Phoenix and Flagstaff.  It takes a 70 mile drive to achieve the temperature drop between those two cities, but only 3600 feet to achieve the cool temp at Mount Washington.  There are three ways to get to the summit from the base (which has an elevation of 2700 feet).  You can drive the Mount Washington Road - which has a 13% grade - and twists like a big snake up the mountain, you can hike up the mountain, or you can be cool and take the Cog Railway. 

The Cog Railway was built in the 19th century right after the Civil War - it opened for business in 1869.  Now, this isn't a normal railroad because the grade isn't gradual, it's at a 37.5% incline.  At the zenith of the incline, we stood up inside the rail car, and we were standing at a 37.5% angle from the floor.  You understand the concept of gravity like never before.  The trees actually look like they are leaning, but it's an optical illusion - we were the ones leaning, not the trees.  The tracks are normal tracks with the exception that there is a center rail full of holes that a cog fits into.  The engine actually pushes the car up or down the mountain one hole at a time.  Here's a pic of a 'used' cog - you get the idea.

Prior to our thrilling rail trip (it takes 40 minutes to go up 3600 feet) - there are no speed records being broken here, we stopped for lunch at the Mount Washington Hotel.  I heard this described as a land locked Titanic, and that's a pretty apt description.  This hotel opened in 1902, and it was the largest wood building in New England at that time.  This was the resort to end all resorts, and it still it.  What a lovely place.  We had lunch on the Veranda.  While we sipped lemonade, we enjoyed the superb view and even better people watching.  This was so languorous and relaxing, it was tempting to blow off the summit trip.  We persevered, levered ourselves out of those cushion padded white wicker chairs and went on our way.

The summit is known for the ferocious winds that blow up there.  In fact the highest wind ever recorded (231 mph) was on the summit of Mount Washington.  Today, the temperature was a mild 60 degrees, but the wind was blowing steadily at 40 mph with gusts to 50 mph.  It was dangerous to walk close to the 'edge' of anything.  But walk people do - the summit is on the Appalachian Trail which is a hiking trail that traverses the length of the Appalachians from Georgia to Maine.  There are cairns built that guide people along the trail at the top of Mount Washington. 

This has been a popular spot for more than a century.  In the 19th century, there was actually a hotel at the summit - The Tip Top House.  I think 'hotel' is stretching it since the 'bedrooms' are very primitive versions of the capsule Japanese hotel rooms or a more accurate comparison are the community berths on long distance trains that the 1930's movies are so fond of showing us - think of the rail scenes from Some Like it Hot or White Christmas.  Today there's a canteen type restaurant, a gift shop (naturally), a post office (Sarah's getting a post card), and a serious weather observatory. 

As always, the rocks and vegetation are very unique to a summit at this elevation with those winds.  I got a real sense today of how old these mountains are.  They seem elderly, but still regal.  Today I understood that these treacherous mountains had to be reckoned with by the early settlers in the 18th century.  They can be killers with their roaring winter storms.  There were crosses close to the top commemorating people who the weather on this mountain has killed.  According to the conductor/guide, Mount Washington weather has killed more people than Mount Everest weather.   These mountains were so difficult to traverse and the winters so harsh that there was virtually no settlement in northern New Hampshire.  Frankly, there's still not much.  The sparseness of people is so evident.  You can drive through miles and miles of forest as far as you can see (or even penetrate) and not see a soul.

We finished out our day with ice cream at Rendell's which has just been named one of the top ten places to eat ice cream in northern New England.  I could have told them that.  Best ice cream I've eaten since the Lopez Island Creamery.  I actually think Rendell's edges out that excellent Washington State offering.  Just to whet your taste buds:  Today I had chocolate mint.  Now their version is creamy chocolate ice cream with slivers of mint and slivers of dark chocolate.  Divine.

As always, there are pictures:
  https://picasaweb.google.com/jalyss1/2011NewHampshireTour2MtWashingtonCogRailroad?authkey=Gv1sRgCPiVi7-Ohan54QE#